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How interesting that was,thanks

how did you connect the audio cables to the amp?

You did a great job of trial and error and keeping at it! I see what your problem is with your blade teeth layout. The assembly as a whole layout needs to be one in which the turning direction constantly pulls any gripped plastic into it as the blade teeth rotate though the cutting wall so plastic is constantly pulled in and cut apart. The best layout for that is a staggered but tight spiral If your blades were thinner. Make use of those thinner teeth but spread them out in rotation to where a stagger will always have a tooth rotating through the cutting wall or is just about to. That keeps the force of pull in for pinched plastic. That would also cut down the shred grain making the shredded plastic smaller. With your current layout, there is not a constant lineup of your teeth to pull in. There is a lined up cutting row then space, lined up cutting row and space, that is why you are getting the feed rejection and bottles jumping in the space between the teeth turning through the cutting wall. Its a grab, let go, grab, let go type of layout. Even thinner blades would give you more pulling force versus what you have there with them paired together and you would need quite a bit more of them so they don't deform. The close stacking effect helps to ward off that. 2 tight complete spirals that were split in the middle and then offset so they are a bit out of phase with each other is one idea or go with the classic V. Blade teeth in the middle hit the cutting wall first then taper out and back on both sides to the end of the shaft. One side of your V could be a more acute teeth taper angle back in rotation and the other side more obtuse for grabbing larger plastic pieces. Different pulling forces, are achieved by the tighter spirals, they never have that air gap and never let go. All that matters is the rotation of the teeth through the wall being constant enough to keep the plastic pulling into the entire blade assembly. I keep thinking of Whoopi Goldberg in Jumping Jack Flash where her dress is caught in the office shredder which almost leaves her naked. The pulling force is strong like that with some shredders having more thin cutting teeth that never let the objects go. They play the numbers game because the higher the number of teeth rotating through the cutting wall at almost the same time means quicker shredding. Its like the design of your paper shredder. The teeth were not the biggest problem it was the motor and electronics. That tooth layout grips things very well. Great video, thanks for posting it!

very helpful Thank you

Hi. Nice help tanks i m making a digital clock using a vfd display kmm3000 😊

Can you share a circuit diagram with the proper protection included?

Or you could just install arduino ide on the pc. I jest. Great video.

Hey bro. I need r&d project. Would u like to help me

update. I tried that configuration. yes it works, but it was easier to have some 10mm steel laser cut vs doubling up the thinner parts.

The issue of unstable arc is also sorta because were used to modern RR electrodes, which have a very forgiving and solid arc. In the early days of arc welding, they actually used unshielded electrodes quite often, and, having tried that myself, your electrode control needs to be perfectly on point, the arc is very fragile, so I think even a simple shielding like this should be a good step up.

Was there a reason why you changed the design of the blades. The first design seemed to shred the plastic to a more smaller and thinner size.

I have a question on the X axis ball nuts. How tight/loose is the compression stack to be? Msg me if you need more info, hard to explain. I have lots of trouble getting it to drill/mill holes where i designed them with fusion 360.

To discharge a CRT you should earth the screwdriver to the TV chassis, in particular the aquadag strap.

What is the best way to make stable voltage around 400kv - 1000kv? All those cheap garbage who I bought form aliexpress death after a few seconds working, even the contact times was less than one second to generate single sparks but they are death.. Im looking to one reliable high voltage generators without getting hot, without burning the ice without burning the coils.. only the best was Tesla coil but its make a huge noise

He has a glove literally in front of him, and he doesn't use it. XD

How would you configuratie one tv tube just for a mono line level?

I think the secret its the power of the engine I was thinking about to connect the papper shredder on the wheel of my car (in first gear) I think 110 horse powers will be enough hahahaha

Have you ever considered preheating the plastic prior to trying to shred it ? Not melting temperature but a temperature that softened the plastic

The calculations here assume that the diodes resistance is related to its temperature in a linear fashion. To verify this you will need to calibrate it by taking a reading while it is in an ice/water bath (0 deg celcius) and again when it is immersed in boiling water (100 deg C).

Excellent

that trip looks fun great idea. Can't wait to do some trips like that with my family

seeing you put a non-integer after SLEEP triggered repressed memories for me

thanks

Induction furnace

Wrong They also work with pulsed DC.

Where did you get this nice VFD?

wow you did it! I am stoked! This is so cool! Now I have a question: can you decouple the camera from the rest of the long rectangular PCB so it can be a spy camera or robot eye etc?

this basically addresses something I was always wondering about and now I know its doable. I always thought couldn't the pc just output signals but not by way of a microcontroller but just directly off some pins somehow? This says yes!

can i ask, if you were to change the material to wood or also from plastic, would it work? i am just curious

for the motor speed you can rig up a pulley over handwheel and use a stepper motor with a “at low speed” ref switch

Good work I'm thinking retrofit a old Hardinge cobra 65 with Fanuc 21t controller with Centroid CNC like to know if some one has tried it

You just need all torque no speed with the first...oh youre getting there

I’m looking for something similar but to shred PCB boards

how much does your shreder

Very cool. I have some older desktops that are not quite "vintage" enough with parallel ports.

So can this be used to make a high resolution Spectrometer? I would think with proper optics to spread the spectrum across this one should be able to get a very high resolution system setup.

This video 's suck!

wow im impressed great job.

ZVS driver is better circuit to drive flyback transformer

Good work. I now see that my dream of an economical way to shred all the plastic packaging I get is unrealistic. The horsepower required just to shred a plastic bottle is surprising. I looked at commercial shredders, and they are way out of my budget. After watching this, it's fairly clear why. I assume they use heat treated steel to allow the cutters to hold an edge. I got nervous watching you poking the beast with that chunk of wood. If the hopper had vertical sides (i.e. a rectangular tube, not a frustrum), you could use a slightly smaller rectangular piston to push the cartons down safely.

Really good work. Surprised by your preference for stainless. You'll find the spec for hardox in the original spec is significantly better than stainless. If you've got parts that are working, corrosion isn't going to be a major concern, plus you can weld hardox like mild steel, it's crazy tough, no tricky distortion, no blunt cutting faces.

You are smart! This is cool I want to set one of these up also and convert my mill to closed loop

Does anyone have an update on how well these machines are running after lots of use?

"I'm not a mechanical engineer" That's a good thing, because a mechanical engineer would have spent way too much time building something that is needlessly complicated and can't be easily repaired.

Before blast furnaces, wood and charcoal were often put into copper and brass because it prevented the bubbles. The bubbles are dissolved oxygen that come out of the copper when it solidifies. Maybe use some artcivated carbon or charcoal sticks in the molten copper?

I have a V2XT to retrofit- not my area of expertise though!

Bro in the post apocalyptic wasteland you will be building an empire while the haters cant quite remember the ingredients you used lol

Nice video! I did similar around the turn of the millennium. I used the box (486 computer) and Visual Basic 4 DOS. The syntax is very similar to FreeDos. Since I didn't have the printer cable anymore, I got me an RS232 plug and soldered wires on it. To protect the printer port, I used TTL NAND chip 7400. I gave up since using the Arduino is more convenient.

Try adding a set of larger rollers above the small so it feeds better. Hope it helps.

Creative video, thanks :)